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Beauty Secrets of India Part 15: Jasmine and Gajra, Flowers in Indian Hair

From Madurai malli to Maharashtra's gajra, fresh flowers are India's most fragrant hair accessory. The traditions, the flowers and how to wear them.

Strings of fresh white jasmine and orange kanakambaram flowers in a woven basket at a flower market
Strings of fresh white jasmine and orange kanakambaram flowers in a woven basket at a flower market
In this article

    This is Part 15 of Beauty Secrets of India, our 20-part series on traditional beauty rituals from across the country. New here? Start with Part 1: Kerala Coconut Oil Hair Ritual, or read the previous instalment, Part 14: Reetha and Shikakai.

    In the evening, flower sellers sit outside temples and bus stands across South India, threading jasmine buds into long strings by hand. A few hours later, the buds open and fill the air with scent. Wearing fresh flowers in the hair is one of India's loveliest everyday beauty traditions.

    The flowers

    • Madurai malli: The jasmine of Madurai in Tamil Nadu is prized for its thick petals and strong fragrance, and holds a GI tag. Madurai's flower market is a sight in itself.
    • Mogra: Arabian jasmine, the classic gajra flower in Maharashtra and north India.
    • Kanakambaram: Bright orange firecracker flowers, often strung with jasmine in Tamil Nadu and Karnataka. They have little scent but hold their shape for days.
    • Mullai and chameli: Other jasmines used for strings and garlands.
    • Roses and marigolds: Used in bridal hairstyles and festive buns.

    Names and styles

    • Gajra is wrapped around a bun, popular in Maharashtra, Gujarat and north India.
    • Veni or poo saram is a long string pinned along a plait, typical in the south.
    • Brides in Tamil Nadu and Kerala may wear a full jadai of flowers covering the entire braid.
    • Flowers are worn for temple visits, festivals, weddings and, for many women, every day.

    How to wear a flower string

    1. Make a plait or bun and secure it well.
    2. For a plait, pin the top of the string just below the crown with two U-pins in a cross.
    3. For a bun, wrap the gajra around the base and tuck the ends with bobby pins.
    4. Spray a light mist of water to keep the flowers fresh for longer.

    Keeping flowers fresh

    • Buy buds rather than open flowers in the evening. They will open at night.
    • Wrap unused strings in a damp cloth or banana leaf and keep them in the fridge.
    • Avoid spraying perfume directly onto jasmine. It browns the petals.
    • A strong floral scent can trigger headaches or sneezing in some people.

    Plan a visit to Madurai with our Tamil Nadu travel guide.

    Patch test first: dab a little of any DIY mix on your inner forearm and wait 24 hours before using it on your face or scalp. These rituals are shared as cultural and personal-care traditions, not medical treatment. For persistent skin or hair problems, see a dermatologist.

    Next in the series: Part 16: Abhyanga.

    Written by Raj

    Founder & Editor

    I write HorizonDesk: practical, no-hype articles on technology, money, business and the vehicles we drive. Everything here is something I’ve researched, tested or wanted explained clearly myself.