This is Part 13 of Beauty Secrets of India, our 20-part series on traditional beauty rituals from across the country. New here? Start with Part 1: Kerala Coconut Oil Hair Ritual, or read the previous instalment, Part 12: Kannauj Rose Water.
Bite into a fresh amla (Indian gooseberry) and your mouth puckers, then turns oddly sweet when you sip water. This small green fruit is one of the richest natural sources of vitamin C, a staple of Ayurvedic recipes like chyawanprash, and one of the most trusted ingredients in Indian hair care.
Amla in the hair care tradition
- Amla oil: Dried amla pieces are slowly heated in coconut or sesame oil, which turns dark and fragrant.
- Amla powder: Dried and powdered fruit is mixed into hair packs and natural shampoos.
- With henna: Amla is added to mehndi hair packs. Many people find it softens the orange tone of henna and leaves hair less dry.
- With reetha and shikakai: The classic trio for a herbal hair wash, covered in Part 14: Reetha and Shikakai.
Make simple amla oil
- Take a handful of dried amla pieces, or grate and sun-dry two or three fresh amlas.
- Add them to a cup of coconut oil in a heavy pan.
- Heat on the lowest flame for 10 to 15 minutes until the oil darkens and the pieces turn brown. Do not let it smoke.
- Cool, strain through a cloth, and store in a dry glass bottle.
- Massage into the scalp an hour before washing, once or twice a week.
An amla and henna hair pack
- Mix three tablespoons of henna with one tablespoon of amla powder.
- Add warm water or tea to make a thick paste, and rest for a few hours.
- Apply to clean hair from root to tip, cover with a shower cap and leave for one to two hours.
- Rinse thoroughly and shampoo the next day.
What the evidence says
Amla is often marketed as a cure for hair fall and greying. The research in people is limited, and sudden or heavy hair fall can have medical causes such as thyroid problems or low iron that need a doctor. Enjoy amla as a conditioning tradition, and eat the fruit too.
Read about henna's other side in Part 8: Mehndi, and get the basics right with our hair oiling guide.
Patch test first: dab a little of any DIY mix on your inner forearm and wait 24 hours before using it on your face or scalp. These rituals are shared as cultural and personal-care traditions, not medical treatment. For persistent skin or hair problems, see a dermatologist.
Next in the series: Part 14: Reetha and Shikakai.