Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 used in skincare to help strengthen the skin barrier, calm redness, reduce oiliness, fade dark spots and soften the look of fine lines. It is generally well tolerated, suits most skin types, and can be applied once or twice a day in a serum or moisturiser, usually after cleansing and before sunscreen in the morning. Clinical studies have mostly used strengths of 2% to 5% and seen results after 4 to 12 weeks. Benefits are real but modest, so think of it as a helpful supporting ingredient rather than a miracle fix.
Niacinamide (also called nicotinamide) appears in everything from budget serums to prescription-strength acne gels. This guide explains what the research shows, how to use it, how to combine it with other ingredients, and what to expect.
What is niacinamide?
Niacinamide is one of the two main forms of vitamin B3; the other is nicotinic acid (niacin). A review in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology explains that the body can convert one into the other, and that niacinamide is part of coenzymes (NAD and NADP) that cells use for energy and repair. Applied to the skin, it is water-soluble, stable and generally well tolerated, which is why it is so widely used in cosmetics.
Mayo Clinic describes niacinamide as a form of vitamin B3 that may help reduce signs of ageing and improve skin tone, and notes that it calms the skin, which may help other ingredients work better.
Benefits of niacinamide for skin
| Benefit | What the research found | Strength of evidence |
|---|---|---|
| Stronger skin barrier | Reduces water loss through the skin and supports ceramide production (lab and clinical data, reviewed) | Moderate |
| Less oiliness | 2% niacinamide lowered sebum measures over 4 to 6 weeks | Small trials |
| Fewer acne spots | 4% gel performed similarly to 1% clindamycin gel over 8 weeks | One small trial |
| Fading dark spots | 5% niacinamide reduced hyperpigmentation after 4 weeks versus a plain moisturiser | Small trials |
| Signs of ageing | 5% improved fine lines, spots, redness, sallowness and elasticity over 12 weeks | One split-face trial |
1. Supports the skin barrier
Your skin barrier keeps moisture in and irritants out. According to the review by Gehring, topical niacinamide helps stabilise barrier function, reducing water loss through the skin and improving the moisture content of the outer layer. It also stimulates the production of ceramides, the fats that help hold skin cells together. A barrier-friendly routine matters for dry and sensitive skin; see our piece on barrier repair for more.
2. Helps control oil and shine
In a study published in the Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 100 Japanese participants using a 2% niacinamide moisturiser had lower sebum excretion after 2 and 4 weeks than those on a placebo. In a smaller split-face study of 30 white participants, surface oil levels fell after 6 weeks, though sebum excretion rate did not change significantly. This makes niacinamide a popular choice in a skincare routine for oily skin.
3. May help with acne
Niacinamide has anti-inflammatory effects. In an 8-week double-blind trial of 76 people with moderate inflammatory acne, a 4% nicotinamide gel worked about as well as a 1% clindamycin (antibiotic) gel: 82% of the niacinamide group and 68% of the clindamycin group improved, a difference that was not statistically significant. This was a small, older study, so niacinamide is best seen as a helpful addition rather than a replacement for treatment a doctor recommends. Our guide to living with acne-prone skin covers everyday habits that help.
4. Can fade dark spots and even out skin tone
A study in the British Journal of Dermatology found that niacinamide reduces the transfer of pigment (melanosomes) from pigment cells to surrounding skin cells. In clinical tests, a 5% niacinamide moisturiser significantly reduced hyperpigmentation and increased skin lightness compared with a plain moisturiser after 4 weeks. Pigmentation returns quickly without sun protection, so pair it with daily sunscreen. If you have larger brown patches, read our guide to melasma causes, treatment and prevention, as melasma usually needs a dermatologist's plan.
5. May soften signs of ageing
In a 12-week split-face trial of 50 women with signs of sun damage, applying 5% niacinamide twice daily reduced fine lines and wrinkles, dark spots, red blotchiness and yellowing, and improved elasticity compared with the untreated side. Like many cosmetic studies, this and the pigmentation study were run by researchers at a skincare manufacturer, and the participant numbers were small.
A note on evidence
A 2014 review in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology concluded that niacinamide is well tolerated and safe and has many promising effects, but that the existing clinical data were not yet enough for a firm scientific evaluation for many uses. Mayo Clinic also points out that over-the-counter creams and serums are regulated as cosmetics, not medicines, so they do not go through the same testing for effectiveness.
How to use niacinamide
Choosing a product
- Strength: the studies above used 2% to 5% on the skin. Many products contain 10% or more; the studies cited here do not show that higher strengths work better, and if your skin is sensitive a lower strength is a gentler place to start.
- Format: serums are popular, but a moisturiser containing niacinamide works too, and may suit dry or sensitive skin better.
- Keep it simple: fragrance-free formulas are a safer bet if your skin is easily irritated.
Step by step
- Patch-test first: apply a little to a small area, such as behind the ear or on the inner arm, for a few days.
- Cleanse gently and pat your skin dry.
- Apply a few drops of serum (or your niacinamide moisturiser) to the whole face.
- Follow with moisturiser if you used a serum.
- In the morning, finish with broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher.
Mayo Clinic suggests applying niacinamide twice a day. If your skin is sensitive, start once a day and build up.
How long until it works?
Studies measured changes after 4 to 12 weeks. Mayo Clinic notes that many over-the-counter skincare products need to be used once or twice a day for up to six weeks before you notice a difference, and that skin usually returns to how it was if you stop.
Combining niacinamide with other ingredients
| Ingredient | Can you combine? | Tips |
|---|---|---|
| Retinol | Usually yes | Niacinamide's calming effect may help; introduce retinol slowly. See how to use retinol for beginners |
| Azelaic acid | Yes | Mayo Clinic notes azelaic acid often works well with niacinamide |
| Vitamin C | Generally yes | If your skin stings, use them at different times of day |
| Exfoliating acids (AHA/BHA) | With care | Use on alternate nights if your skin is sensitive |
| Sunscreen | Always | Essential if you are treating dark spots |
The general rule is to introduce one new active ingredient at a time, a few weeks apart, so you can tell what suits your skin and what causes irritation.
Side effects and safety
Topical niacinamide was well tolerated in the studies above. Still, Mayo Clinic notes that any over-the-counter skincare product can cause irritation, rashes, burning or swelling in some people. If that happens, use it less often, switch to a lower strength or a moisturiser format, or stop. Seek medical help for swelling, a spreading rash or severe irritation.
If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor or dermatologist before adding new active ingredients to your routine.
What about niacinamide tablets?
Oral nicotinamide is a different matter from skincare. In a 2015 trial in the New England Journal of Medicine, 386 people who had already had at least two non-melanoma skin cancers took 500 mg of nicotinamide twice a day or a placebo for a year. The nicotinamide group had 23% fewer new non-melanoma skin cancers, but there was no evidence of benefit after people stopped. This was a high-risk group under specialist care, so do not take supplements for skin cancer prevention without speaking to your doctor first, and keep using sun protection.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use niacinamide every day?
Yes, most people can. Studies applied it once or twice a day, and Mayo Clinic suggests twice daily. Start once a day if you have sensitive skin.
Is niacinamide good for oily and acne-prone skin?
It can help. Small studies found 2% niacinamide reduced oiliness and a 4% gel improved inflammatory acne. For moderate to severe acne, see a dermatologist.
Does niacinamide lighten skin?
It can help fade dark spots and uneven patches by reducing pigment transfer, but it will not change your natural skin colour. Daily sunscreen is essential for results.
Is 10% niacinamide better than 5%?
Not necessarily. The clinical studies cited here used 2% to 5%. Higher strengths are common in shops, but these studies do not show that they work better.
Can niacinamide replace retinol?
Not really. They work differently and can be used together. Mayo Clinic describes retinoids as helping to smooth wrinkles and reduce discoloration, while niacinamide is gentler and may help with redness, oil and tone.
Disclaimer: This article is for general information only and is not medical advice. Skin differs from person to person. Patch-test new products, and consult a dermatologist or doctor for persistent, painful or worsening skin problems, or before using active ingredients if you are pregnant, breastfeeding or on prescription treatment.
Sources
- Mayo Clinic: Wrinkle creams, your guide to younger looking skin
- Gehring W. Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. J Cosmet Dermatol, 2004
- Wohlrab J, Kreft D. Niacinamide: mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology. Skin Pharmacol Physiol, 2014
- Draelos ZD et al. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. J Cosmet Laser Ther, 2006
- Shalita AR et al. Topical nicotinamide compared with clindamycin gel in inflammatory acne. Int J Dermatol, 1995
- Hakozaki T et al. Niacinamide, cutaneous pigmentation and melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol, 2002
- Bissett DL et al. Niacinamide improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatol Surg, 2005
- Chen AC et al. A phase 3 randomized trial of nicotinamide for skin-cancer chemoprevention. N Engl J Med, 2015
