Skincare Routine for Oily Skin: A Simple Morning and Night Guide

The best skincare routine for oily skin is simple:

• Morning: wash with a gentle foaming cleanser, apply a light oil-free, non-comedogenic moisturiser, then a broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher.
• Night: cleanse again, use one targeted active such as salicylic acid, niacinamide or a retinoid, and finish with a light moisturiser.

Dermatologists warn against harsh scrubs, alcohol-based toners and over-washing, which irritate the skin and can make it look worse. This guide gives you a step-by-step AM/PM routine, the ingredients worth using and the common mistakes that keep skin shiny.

Why some skin is oily, and why that is not all bad

Oil (sebum) is made by sebaceous glands in the skin. How much you produce depends largely on genetics, hormones, age and climate. Heat and humidity make shine more noticeable. When sebum mixes with dead skin cells it can clog pores, which leads to blackheads, whiteheads and breakouts.

Oily skin has an upside. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) notes that oil helps preserve the skin, and people with oily skin tend to have thicker skin and fewer wrinkles. So the goal is balance, not stripping every drop of oil.

Is your skin oily, combination or dehydrated?

The morning routine for oily skin

1. Gentle foaming cleanser. The AAD recommends a mild, gentle face wash rather than a harsh one. Strong cleansers irritate the skin and can trigger more oil. Avoid oil-based and alcohol-based cleansers. Use lukewarm water and your fingertips, not a scrub.
2. Optional light serum. A niacinamide serum suits many oily-skin routines (more on it below).
3. Oil-free, non-comedogenic moisturiser. Oily skin still needs hydration. Choose gel or lotion textures labelled "oil free" and "non-comedogenic", meaning they are formulated not to clog pores.
4. Broad-spectrum sunscreen, SPF 30 or higher. The AAD suggests sunscreens with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide and avoiding fragranced or oily formulas if you're prone to breakouts. Gel, fluid or "matte" finishes are usually more comfortable. Our sunscreen guide explains how much to use and when to reapply.

To save a step, the AAD notes you can use a moisturiser that already contains broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher.

The night routine for oily skin

1. Remove makeup and sunscreen, then cleanse. The AAD advises never sleeping in makeup. If you wear heavy sunscreen or makeup, a second gentle cleanse can help.
2. One targeted active (choose based on your main concern):
   • Salicylic acid (BHA) for blackheads and clogged pores. It is oil-soluble, so it works inside the pore. Start 2–3 nights a week.
   • Niacinamide for shine and redness. It is gentle enough for most people to use daily.
   • A retinoid (retinol, or adapalene where it is available without prescription) for clogged pores, acne marks and texture. Start low and slow, two or three nights a week, and skip it if you are pregnant or trying to conceive.
   • Glycolic or lactic acid (AHAs) for dullness and texture, a few nights a week.
3. Light moisturiser. It helps protect the skin barrier, especially when you are using actives.

Don't stack every active at once. The AAD notes that ingredients like salicylic, glycolic and lactic acid can reduce oiliness but may be too harsh for some people. Stop the product or use it less often if your skin becomes irritated. Introduce one new product at a time, two to four weeks apart.

Ingredients that help oily skin, and what the evidence says

About niacinamide: in one study, 100 Japanese participants using a 2% niacinamide moisturiser had a significantly lower sebum excretion rate after 2 and 4 weeks than those using a placebo. A separate split-face study in 30 Caucasian participants found lower surface sebum levels after 6 weeks, although the sebum excretion rate itself did not fall significantly. These results are encouraging but modest. Mayo Clinic also notes that niacinamide calms the skin and may help other ingredients work better.

Common mistakes that make oily skin worse

• Washing too often or scrubbing. The AAD advises cleansing up to twice daily and after sweating, without scrubbing. Scrubbing irritates skin and can make it look worse.
• Skipping moisturiser. Dehydrated skin often looks oilier and feels tight.
• Using alcohol-heavy toners or harsh "oil control" products. These cause irritation and can lead to rebound shine.
• Touching your face during the day, which spreads oil, dirt and bacteria.
• Rubbing blotting papers across the face. The AAD advises pressing a blotting paper gently against the skin for a few seconds instead of rubbing it, which spreads the oil.
• Heavy, oil-based makeup. Choose oil-free, water-based or "matte" products.
• Using too many products at once. More actives mean more irritation, not faster results.
• Squeezing spots. This increases the risk of marks and scarring.

What the NHS says helps acne-prone, oily skin

NHS self-care advice for acne lines up closely with the AAD's. It recommends:

• washing twice a day with a gentle cleanser;
• removing make-up at the end of the day;
• using non-comedogenic skincare and make-up;
• trying salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, with a pharmacist's advice;
• wearing loose, breathable clothing when exercising if you get spots on your body;
• not picking or squeezing spots, which can scar;
• not scrubbing, which can irritate the skin and make acne worse.

It also lists greasy skin and hair products among the things that can contribute to acne. So check what is in your hair oil, styling products and heavy creams if your forehead or hairline keeps breaking out.

Oily skin in hot and humid weather

Humidity and sweat make oily skin feel heavier. Practical adjustments:

• Switch to gel moisturisers and fluid or gel sunscreens.
• Rinse or cleanse gently after heavy sweating, such as after a workout or a commute.
• Carry blotting papers rather than adding more powder through the day.
• Keep pillowcases, towels and phone screens clean.

For how routines change through the year, see our season-by-season skincare routine.

A sample weekly plan

Give any routine at least 6–8 weeks before judging it. If you're dealing with frequent breakouts, our guide to living with acne-prone skin covers more habits that help.

When to see a dermatologist

• Painful, deep or cystic acne, or acne that is leaving scars or dark marks
• No improvement after two to three months of a consistent routine
• Sudden oiliness or acne together with irregular periods, excess hair growth or hair thinning, which can point to a hormonal cause
• Persistent redness, flaking or itching, which may be another condition such as seborrhoeic dermatitis or rosacea

The NHS explains that a doctor or dermatologist can prescribe stronger treatments than those sold in shops. These include:

• Topical retinoids such as tretinoin and adapalene, which reduce inflammation and oiliness and help prevent spots.
• Topical or oral antibiotics.
• The combined pill, to manage the hormones that contribute to acne.
• Oral isotretinoin, for severe acne.

These can be very effective for more severe acne. If your acne is affecting your confidence or mood, that's a good enough reason to seek help.

Frequently asked questions

Should oily skin use moisturiser?

Yes. The AAD recommends applying moisturiser after cleansing even if you have oily skin. Choose a light, oil-free, non-comedogenic formula.

How many times a day should I wash oily skin?

Up to twice a day, and after heavy sweating, according to the AAD. Washing more often or scrubbing can irritate the skin and make oiliness look worse.

Does drinking water reduce oily skin?

Drinking enough water is good for your overall health, but there's no good evidence that it reduces how much oil your skin produces. A gentle routine and the right products make the bigger difference.

Is niacinamide or salicylic acid better for oily skin?

They do different jobs. Niacinamide may reduce sebum and calm redness, and suits daily use. Salicylic acid unclogs pores and helps blackheads. Many people use niacinamide in the morning and salicylic acid a few nights a week.

Can oily skin skip sunscreen?

No. Sun exposure causes dark spots, wrinkles and skin cancer risk regardless of skin type. Choose a lightweight, non-comedogenic, broad-spectrum SPF 30+ formula.

Disclaimer: This article is for general information only and is not medical advice. Skin differs from person to person. Patch-test new products, and consult a dermatologist or doctor for persistent, painful or worsening skin problems, or before using active ingredients if you are pregnant, breastfeeding or on prescription treatment.

Related reading on HorizonDesk

• Sunscreen made simple: how to choose and use it
• Living with acne-prone skin: everyday habits that help
• A basic skincare routine, season by season

Sources

• American Academy of Dermatology: How to control oily skin
• Draelos ZD et al., Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy: The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production
• Mayo Clinic: Wrinkle creams, ingredients guide
• NHS: Acne treatment