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Incredible India Part 8: Madhya Pradesh Travel Guide – Khajuraho, Kanha, Gwalior and Orchha

The 'Heart of India' offers temple art, tiger reserves, medieval forts and Buddhist stupas. Plan a Madhya Pradesh trip with this guide to its best places.

Riverside chhatris of Orchha on the Betwa river at sunset
Riverside chhatris of Orchha on the Betwa river at sunset
In this article

    This is Part 8 of Incredible India, our state-by-state travel series. Start from Part 1: Ladakh or read the previous part, Part 7: Uttar Pradesh.

    Madhya Pradesh sits at the centre of India and is one of its most underrated states. It has three UNESCO World Heritage Sites, some of the best tiger reserves in Asia and a string of forgotten medieval capitals.

    Best time to visit

    October to March is ideal for sightseeing. Tiger reserves are usually open from October to June, with April-June offering the best sightings as animals gather at waterholes, though it is hot. Core zones close during the monsoon.

    Top places to see

    • Khajuraho: exquisitely carved Chandela temples. See our Khajuraho guide.
    • Kanha and Bandhavgarh: tiger safaris in sal forests and meadows; Pench and Satpura are quieter options.
    • Gwalior: the hilltop fort, Jai Vilas Palace and the city's music heritage.
    • Orchha: palaces, temples and riverside cenotaphs on the Betwa.
    • Sanchi: the great Buddhist stupa, near Bhopal.
    • Bhimbetka: prehistoric rock shelters with paintings.
    • Mandu: Afghan-era palaces such as Jahaz Mahal and Rani Roopmati's pavilion.
    • Ujjain and Omkareshwar: two of the 12 jyotirlingas.
    • Pachmarhi: the state's only hill station.
    • Indore: India's cleanest city and a street-food capital.

    Getting there and around

    Bhopal, Indore, Gwalior, Jabalpur and Khajuraho have airports. Jabalpur is the gateway to Kanha and Bandhavgarh. Distances are long, so combine flights or trains with a private car.

    Sample itineraries

    • Heritage (7 days): Gwalior, Orchha and Khajuraho.
    • Wildlife (6 days): Kanha and Bandhavgarh via Jabalpur.
    • Central MP (5 days): Bhopal, Sanchi, Bhimbetka, Indore and Mandu.

    Practical tips

    • Book tiger safari permits early on the MP Forest Department website.
    • Wear neutral colours on safari and carry warm layers for winter mornings.
    • Hire licensed guides at Khajuraho and Orchha to understand the stories behind the carvings.

    What to eat

    Poha-jalebi, dal bafla, Bhopali gosht korma and Indore's night-market snacks. Try our bhutte ka kees recipe.

    Next in Incredible India: Gujarat.

    Written by Raj

    Founder & Editor

    I write HorizonDesk: practical, no-hype articles on technology, money, business and the vehicles we drive. Everything here is something I’ve researched, tested or wanted explained clearly myself.