This is Part 19 of Incredible India, our state-by-state travel series. Start from Part 1: Ladakh or read the previous part, Part 18: Assam.
Meghalaya means "abode of clouds", and few places in India are as green. Its plateau, home to the Khasi, Jaintia and Garo communities, is famous for dramatic waterfalls, some of the wettest places on earth, deep caves and the remarkable living root bridges grown from the roots of rubber fig trees.
Best time to visit
October to April offers pleasant weather and clear rivers, ideal for Dawki's famous transparent water (best from November to March). The monsoon (June-September) is when waterfalls are at their most powerful, but heavy rain can disrupt travel and treks.
Top places to see
- Shillong: the hill capital with Ward's Lake, Police Bazaar, Don Bosco Museum and a vibrant music scene; Umiam Lake on the way from Guwahati.
- Cherrapunji (Sohra): Nohkalikai Falls, Seven Sisters Falls and Mawsmai Cave.
- Nongriat: the double-decker living root bridge, reached by a steep trek of around 3,500 steps each way.
- Dawki and Shnongpdeng: boating on the crystal-clear Umngot river near the Bangladesh border.
- Mawlynnong: often described as one of Asia's cleanest villages, with a nearby root bridge at Riwai.
- Laitlum Canyons: sweeping views over deep valleys.
- Mawphlang Sacred Forest: an ancient forest protected by Khasi tradition.
- Krang Suri Falls: turquoise pools in the Jaintia Hills.
Getting there and around
Most visitors fly into Guwahati and drive about 3 hours to Shillong. Shillong also has a small airport at Umroi. Hire a taxi for day trips; roads are winding and distances take longer than they look.
Sample 5-day itinerary
- Guwahati to Shillong via Umiam Lake.
- Laitlum and Mawphlang, then on to Cherrapunji.
- Trek to the Nongriat double-decker root bridge.
- Mawlynnong and Dawki.
- Return to Shillong and Guwahati.
Practical tips
- Wear good trekking shoes; root bridge trails are steep and slippery.
- Many villages charge small entry or parking fees; carry cash.
- Respect sacred forests: don't take anything out of them.
What to eat
Try jadoh (rice cooked with meat), doh khlieh (pork salad), tungrymbai (fermented soybean) and pumaloi rice cakes.
Next in Incredible India: the final part, Arunachal Pradesh.
