This is Part 5 of Incredible India, our state-by-state travel series. Start from Part 1: Ladakh or read the previous part, Part 4: Uttarakhand.
Punjab, the land of five rivers, is famous for its warmth, its farms and its food. For most travellers, the trip centres on Amritsar, home to the holiest shrine of Sikhism, but the state offers much more, from royal Patiala to Sikh heritage at Anandpur Sahib.
Why go
- The serene Harmandir Sahib (Golden Temple), especially at dawn and dusk.
- Sharing a meal at the temple's langar, which serves free food to tens of thousands of people every day.
- The patriotic Beating Retreat ceremony at the Attari-Wagah border.
Best time to visit
October to March is the most comfortable, though December and January mornings can be foggy and cold. Summer (April-June) is very hot. Festivals such as Baisakhi (April), Hola Mohalla at Anandpur Sahib (March) and Bandi Chhor Divas (at Diwali) are special times to visit.
Top places to see
- Golden Temple, Amritsar: open almost round the clock; join the evening Palki Sahib ceremony.
- Jallianwala Bagh: the memorial to the 1919 massacre.
- Partition Museum: moving stories of the 1947 Partition, at the Town Hall.
- Attari-Wagah Border: the daily flag-lowering ceremony; arrive early.
- Gobindgarh Fort: a restored fort with shows and food.
- Anandpur Sahib: Takht Sri Kesgarh Sahib and the Virasat-e-Khalsa museum.
- Patiala: Qila Mubarak and the city of the Phulkian maharajas.
- Farm stays: experience rural Punjab, tractor rides and home cooking.
Getting there and around
Amritsar's Sri Guru Ram Dass Jee International Airport has domestic and international flights. Fast trains such as the Shatabdi and Vande Bharat connect Amritsar to Delhi. Chandigarh, the planned capital designed by Le Corbusier, is a convenient base for eastern Punjab. Within Amritsar, e-rickshaws and app cabs are easy to find.
Practical tips
- Cover your head at gurdwaras (scarves are provided), remove shoes and wash your feet before entering.
- Tobacco and alcohol are strictly not allowed in the temple complex.
- Wagah gets very crowded on weekends and holidays; carry ID and minimal bags.
Sample 3-day itinerary
- Golden Temple, langar, Jallianwala Bagh and the Partition Museum.
- Gobindgarh Fort and Amritsari food walk; Wagah ceremony in the afternoon.
- Golden Temple at dawn, then a farm stay or a trip to Anandpur Sahib.
What to eat
Amritsari kulcha, chole, lassi, Amritsari fish, and in winter, sarson da saag. See our recipe for sarson da saag and makki di roti.
Next in Incredible India: Rajasthan.
