For a few days every autumn, Kolkata turns into the world's largest open-air art gallery. Thousands of pandals, temporary structures built around idols of Goddess Durga, fill the city, many of them breathtaking art installations. Kolkata's Durga Puja was added to UNESCO's list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2021.
The festival is in full swing this weekend, with Maha Ashtami on 19 October and Bijoya Dashami on 21 October, when idols are immersed.
Plan by area, not by list
Kolkata traffic during Pujo is slow, so pick one area per outing and walk between pandals.
- North Kolkata: Traditional pujas and history. Bagbazar Sarbojanin is known for its classic idol and fair, and Kumartuli, the idol-makers' quarter, is worth seeing in itself. Nearby are Tala Prattoy, College Square, Mohammad Ali Park and Santosh Mitra Square.
- South Kolkata: Famous theme pandals such as Ekdalia Evergreen, Singhi Park, Suruchi Sangha, Deshapriya Park, Chetla Agrani and many in Behala.
- East and Lake Town: Sreebhumi Sporting Club draws some of the biggest crowds in the city.
- Bonedi bari pujas: Old family pujas in historic mansions, such as Shobhabazar Rajbari, show how Durga Puja was celebrated for centuries.
Beat the crowds
- Ashtami and Navami nights are the busiest. Weekday mornings and very late nights are calmer.
- Big pandals can mean waits of up to two hours at peak times.
- Agree on a meeting point with your group before entering long queues.
- VIP passes often do not work at the most famous pandals.
Getting around
- The Kolkata Metro usually runs extended services during Pujo, often past midnight on the busiest nights. Check official Metro announcements for exact timings.
- Many roads close to traffic near big pandals; expect to walk 8 to 10 km in an evening.
- App cabs surge heavily at night, so plan your way back.
What to eat
Pujo food is half the fun: phuchka, egg rolls, kathi rolls, mughlai paratha, fish fry, biryani and mishti doi from street stalls and old favourites. At community pujas, look out for bhog. Try making it at home with our bhog khichuri recipe.
Practical tips
- Wear comfortable shoes and light clothes, and carry water and a power bank, as networks jam in crowds.
- Keep phones and wallets secure in crowds.
- Liquor shops are closed on Maha Ashtami.
- Check the weather: October showers are common.
- Dress up for the occasion with our Durga Puja beauty guide.
Planning a longer trip? Read our West Bengal travel guide.
