This is Part 9 of Flavours of India, our series on India's regional cuisines. Start from Part 1: Chettinad or read the previous part, Part 8: Kashmir.
Goa's cuisine is two stories in one. The Hindu Konkani tradition is built on coconut, rice, seafood and kokum. Then, from 1510 to 1961, Portuguese rule brought vinegar, pork, bread baking and New World ingredients like chillies, potatoes and cashews. Catholic Goan dishes such as vindaloo and sorpotel come from this fusion.
What makes Goan cuisine special
- Coconut in curries, sweets and as coconut oil.
- Sour notes from kokum, tamarind and toddy vinegar.
- Tirphal (teppal): a Sichuan-pepper-like spice used with fish.
- Seafood: kingfish (visvan), pomfret, mackerel, prawns, mussels and clams.
- Breads: Goan poi and pao baked daily by local poders.
"Xitt kodi": curry rice, the soul of Goa
For most Goans, lunch is xitt kodi, rice with a coconut-based fish curry, often with a fried fish and a vegetable on the side. It is simple, comforting and eaten almost every day.
Goan fish curry recipe
Serves: 4 · Prep: 20 minutes · Cook: 20 minutes
Ingredients
- 500 g firm fish (kingfish, pomfret or mackerel), cut into pieces
- 1/2 tsp turmeric and salt to marinate
- 2 tbsp coconut oil
- 1 medium onion, thinly sliced
- 2 green chillies, slit
- 4-5 kokum petals (or a small lime-sized ball of tamarind)
- 4-5 tirphal, lightly crushed (optional)
- Salt to taste and about 1 1/2 cups water
For the coconut masala
- 1 cup freshly grated coconut
- 8 Kashmiri dried red chillies (soaked 15 minutes)
- 1 tbsp coriander seeds, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 6 black peppercorns
- 1/2 tsp turmeric
- 4 garlic cloves and 1/2 inch ginger
- 1/2 small onion
Method
- Rub the fish with turmeric and salt and set aside for 15 minutes.
- Grind all the masala ingredients with about 1 cup water into a very smooth, bright orange paste.
- Heat coconut oil in a wide pan and sauté the sliced onion and green chillies until soft.
- Add the masala paste and remaining water. Bring to a gentle boil and simmer for 5-6 minutes, until the raw smell disappears and the curry thickens slightly.
- Add salt, kokum and tirphal.
- Slide in the fish pieces, swirl the pan gently and simmer for 6-8 minutes until the fish is just cooked. Avoid stirring with a spoon.
- Rest for 10 minutes before serving.
Tips
- Grind the coconut masala as smooth as possible for a silky curry.
- Kokum turns the curry slightly purple; tamarind gives a browner colour. Both are authentic.
- Prawns work beautifully too; cook them for just 4-5 minutes.
How to serve
Serve with boiled rice (Goans love the parboiled red ukde rice), a piece of rava-fried fish, kismur (dried shrimp salad) and a glass of sol kadhi.
Other Goan dishes to try
- Pork vindaloo: from the Portuguese carne de vinha d'alhos, meat in vinegar and garlic.
- Chicken xacuti: with roasted coconut and poppy seeds.
- Chicken cafreal: green, coriander-based and grilled.
- Prawn balchão: a fiery prawn pickle.
- Bebinca: a layered coconut-egg dessert, made at Christmas.
Visiting this season? See our Goa travel guide.
Next in Flavours of India: Maharashtra's misal pav.
